Imagine more than fifty men(just a rough estimate, I didn’t count) form a circle, swaying their bodies rhythmically from side to side, chanting “chak chak chak”. A costume musical drama, set against the breathtaking backdrop of the clear blue sea at sunset.

Pura Ulawatu, the famous Hindu Temple in Bali is perched on a cliff facing the sea. It is an open-air auditorium, with no stage or curtains. Kechak dance is performed there. It is a “musical drama” performed without instruments, solely using the human voice for musical effect.

A huge black stone lamp was, placed in the centre of the performing area. A priest dressed in a traditional white garment lit the flame. That was a signal of the commencement of the show. The smoke from the burning flame created a dramatic effect. Soon after that, I heard chants of “chak chak chak”. Soft sounds in the beginning, which grew louder within no time. A troupe of bare-chested male dancers, clothed in check-patterned Balinese sarongs, entered the arena.

They were chanting in synchronised harmony and tempo. Slowly the tempo increased, and the performers raised their hands towards the sky. For the next one hour, they kept repeating the chants. Accompanied by the sound of the sea, this orchestra of voices was led by a soloist who controlled the tempo and volume of the group. Different sounds were incorporated into the “chaks” to highlight various characters entering and leaving the performing area.

Slowly the drama unfolded, and the story started taking shape.  The Kechak dance is a traditional Balinese dance that tells the story of Ramayana. The singers/dancers portray, Rama’s army of Vanaras (monkeys) and Ravana’s army of Rakshas(demons). They recreate the sighting of the Golden Deer, the kidnapping of Sita by Ravana, the conflict between Ravana and Jatayu, and Hanuman’s quest for Sita. It ends with the fight between Rama and Ravana, the victory of good over evil.

The most dramatic part of the performance was the entry of Hanuman. The actor who played Hanuman jumped in the middle of the audience. He pranced around the area, jumping up and down the steps, amid the viewers. The spectators excitedly took selfies with him. The entry of Ravana dressed in black, red and gold was no less dramatic. The chants were high-pitched whenever the scene climaxed and soon softened to create a dramatic effect. The performers swayed according to the rhythm. No need for dialogue, the rise and fall in pitch of the chant of chak chak created all the drama.

As the sun set in the background, the colour of the sky turned orange and golden. The torches borne by the artists, and their dramatic actions cast a magical spell.  The sound of chak chak chak stayed in my mind for a long time.

Photos and content by Prerna Jain.