Sawan or Sravaṇa (Sanskrit: श्रावण) is the fifth month of the Hindu calendar. This month is dedicated to Lord Shiva. In the month of Sawan, groups of men and some women dressed in saffron clothes walk for miles on foot or travel atop trucks, carrying decorated slings and chanting praises of Lord Shiva. This annual pilgrimage is known as the Kanwar Yatra, named after the kanwar pole ( made of bamboo) with containers fastened and dangling from opposite ends. The containers are filled with water from the sacred Ganga, which these Kanwariyas (pilgrims) offer at various Shiva temples.

The kanvar is carried by balancing the middle of the pole on one or both shoulders.

The number of kanwariyas has swelled over the years, and so have the complaints about kanwariyas blasting music from their vehicles and causing inconvenience to citizens on their route.

A majority of Kanwarias are men, with a few women also participating in the yatra. Most travel the distance on foot, a few also travel on bicycles, motorcycles, scooters, mini trucks or jeeps.

The Kanwar Yatra has been held every year for centuries, except during the COVID-19 pandemic. The Kanwar Yatra used to be much quieter and simpler in the past. Over the past few years, this Yatra has made headlines for all the wrong reasons. There has been considerable online criticism of the loud and unruly behaviour of the Kanwarias. Videos and photos of ruckus created by a few Kanwariyas are circulating on social media. Demands for stringent measures to deal with such vandalism are being raised by many citizens. There are some hooligans, and there are instances of unruly behaviour. Rules about noise pollution are often flouted, and traffic regulations are frequently broken. Roads are sealed, and the closure of schools along the Kanwar route is a nuisance for a large portion of the population.

The other side of the story is that these events give many socially disadvantaged young men a sense of meaning and belonging. Just because some people have turned devotion into a spectacle, it doesn’t mean that every Kanwaria is out there to destroy everything that comes their way. Laws should be enforced to minimise the distress of those who are not participating. No one should be allowed to deliberately hurt any other citizen. The truth is, all processions, whether political, social or religious, cause some amount of inconvenience to the common man. The degree may vary depending on various factors. But let us not condemn this beautiful tradition because of the aggressive behaviour of some people and the overzealous approach of political parties, to appease their vote banks.

Lord Shiva is revered as an ascetic, someone who has renounced all worldly pleasures and possessions. His long, unkempt hair is a sign of detachment from materialism. This woman, Kanwaria, proudly displayed her long, unwashed hair to show her faith and respect for Lord Shiva.

When I was growing up, we were told that it was a good deed to help pilgrims in any way possible. They used to be quieter and humbler, though. Why just Kanwarias, all pilgrims, across the religious divide were respected. I have met Kanwarias, spoken to them, and taken pictures of them. I didn’t feel unsafe with them, although I was warned that they might get aggressive at times. They are devotees of Lord Shiva, not warriors of religion, as they are made out to be.

Photos and text by Prerna Jain.